Scanning Film with my Digital Camera

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Scanning film with a DSLR or digital camera has been very hot these last couple of months but I’ve never actually tried it. So in this video I do my best to scan film with my digital camera for the first time, talk about my first experience and share the process from start to finish. At the end I touch on whether or not the hype is real around this method of scanning and talk more about who this is for. I hope you guys find value in this experience, thanks for tuning in!

PORTRA 400 (Cheapest Price I could find):
35mm –
120 –

Portra 160 –
Go Pro Hero 7 Black –
10x Kodak Ultramax –
10x Fujicolor 100 –
Unicolor c-41 kit –
My Camera –

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Filming Equipment used:
Sony A7II
Manfrotto tripod
Go Pro hero 7

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KingJvpes says:

Interesting first experience! Thanks for tuning in 🤘🏼🔥

Shua T says:

Now considering selling my optic scanner… I love it but it takes so long to scan in high resolution.

Jackie Huynh says:

I recently learned that Silverfast is available for free for Epson v550 and V600. I only use it for color scans though due to the preset that it have. It is amazing. Maybe you can looking into that for your Epson

Evangelos Michelinakis says:

Cool! Anyone thinks this can work with a smartphone instead of a DSLR?

deej807 says:

Also worth looking at CNMY Inversion for Photoshop or Afinity. Patreon subscription model but you can sub for 1 month and the cancel without losing the software. Let’s you have a go without investing as much as with NLP. I subbed for a few months before I found my Nikon Coolscan 9000.

The Don DeLuxe says:

Horny whatnow?

RonnyKohlmann says:

Damn, so jealous to be able to thrift a brand new, in box macro lens. Here in Australia that would be extremely difficult to pull off. Nothing analog usually around

Sam J Lewis says:

One other thing to think about is whether you want to do one photo of each negative or do multiple photos stitched together to give you a higher resolution “scan”.

fobudomh says:

Which lens did you use ?

The Chironium says:

I went straight into this process when I started shooting film about 7 months ago and 2 recommendations. Do it in complete darkness as any other light can mess with your scan or even make it slightly foggy and the other is negative lab pro makes it a dream to convert and is really easy and quick to use for amazing results. Personally I enjoy the process of scanning them this way and getting to view my negs up close… I don't know something about it. Great video bro!

xpixtures says:

I scan my negatives with a dslr and negative lab pro. Especially on darker images make shure that you haven't got a vingiette ir an uneven lightsource. Because when you convert the image into positives, your going to get a bright, white vingiette. Also make shure to block all the acces light around the filmstock so it doesnt cause light leaks into your camera, thus creating, again, uneven vingiettes. In my experience, the brighter the lightsource, the better. Hope ur dooing save!

appleshampoo says:

Try out 'negative lab pro' it does an amazing job converting film.

appleshampoo says:

You can also use your smartphone as a lightbox. It gives more even light than a very cheap lighttable.

Mike Padua says:

My dude! For anyone using Lightroom: build presets for your most commonly used types of film, and set those presets to apply on import. Presets applied on import is what's going to save you time on the back end!

Carl Lovén says:

Did you notice a big sharpness difference for MF scan vs photo?

I already have a plustek for 35, but I feel that the scans lack dynamic range…

LifeOfFrank says:

Great video!
I've had a bias against dslr scanning bc everyone I know that did it wouldn't focus or color correct 😂 this definitely changes my perspective 👍
Also I would suggest testing out capture one for sony, I've had issuess with color and sharpness rendering with lightroom for sony & Fuji.

ryan ogawa says:

I have been off and on scanning with my Canon flatbed and my Xt3. The details are a “little better” with my Xt3 and it’s quick to scan, but like you said the post work is a little much at times. Also the time it takes to setup my tripod and camera, camera settings, Tripod height, leveling etc…
I have three boys under 7 years old, so time is precious haha. I may stick to the quality of my Canon flatbed 🤪
Thanks for taking the time to create these videos ✌🏼

Chedfer Kismet says:

This is probably a dumb question but why does your lightroom look so different from the lightroom I use?

Malcolm Barron says:

There’s a multi format film holder made specifically for this method of negative digitising. It handles 35mm, 120 and 4×5. It’s called Pixl-latr and can be found here:

Ricky Alarcon says:

The upload notification comes up while i'm using my dslr to digitize my first batch of color negatives developed at home. Coincidence? I think not

ClimbyBoy says:

I'd love to be able to scan my negatives this way, but since I don't have a light table, or a tripod or a macro lense, I'll go for the cheaper option and choose the Epson (as soon as the lockdown is over!)

One thing you didn't mention is the file size. Since you scan with a 24Mpx camera you get a much bigger scan of your negative which can be very helpful if you to intend to print afterwards (espacially if you want to go big)

Ben Seligson says:

This is great!

Erik Bleu says:

You can get Silverfast SE 8 for free if you own an Epson V550, V600 or GT-X830 🙂

U915 Figurines says:

Tha part of Tone Curve adjustments was missing in my life. Will try this trick asap. Thanks.

Jonathan Jones says:

If you want an extremely sharp marco lens, look up enlarger lenses on ebay. They're super cheap and they were made to be very sharp. You can have the lens just a few inches away from the negative too.

schnürsenkel TV says:

Try negative lab pro and you should safe some hours on both ways ✌🏼

Carl Classic says:

Great video 🤘🏻 as always

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